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logun domin8tor
1 May 2012, 23:08,
#11
RE: logun domin8tor
i use this method and as long as you get the former hot enough the impurities do float to the top i reuse old pellets and old lead pipe to make mine with no issues ...as long as the mould gets hot after the first five or six its a lot easier...one thing i like i seem to have bumped in to people with the same interests ...its good stuff.
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1 May 2012, 23:44,
#12
RE: logun domin8tor
Thankyou for the info, my surmising about this particular piece of kit stand corrected.

What about the ball bearing pointless point?? Any pointers?
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1 May 2012, 23:48,
#13
RE: logun domin8tor
i have tried the ball bearings ones and they come out fine ... but they dont group as well ...but the standard ones hit hard enough ... and i set my rifle up on one pellet type only ...i find using pellet lube has also helped get good grouping with them .
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2 May 2012, 00:04,
#14
RE: logun domin8tor
I see. I still don't understand why there would be a steel ball bearing mounted in the nose.
1) The pellet is more akin to a slug & therefore will have a higher weight than a conventional pellet. This will result in two things
a)The slug/pellet will fly more slowly due to absorption of some of the kinetic energy in its initial acceleration
b)This will require higher pressure air rifles to maintain an adequate velocity.

2)The slug/pellet as shown, being heavier than a conventional pellet will have much more mass impact on the target. Being soft lead it will dump all this energy into the target. The soft lead will expand anyway as a part of this process.

The reason I do not think the ball bearing is sound logic - other than the points already mentioned, including the one about the pellets not being as accurate - is because the ball bearing will do a few things
1) Decrease the nose weight
2) Act as a hollow head point in relation to the lead mass, but possibly not quite deforming as uniformly as just a cavity would.

Why would you need a hollow point in a .22 air rifle pellet? Genuinely - is this a valid configuration (not being an airgunner)?
If the ammunition is for hunting small game - especially in a survival feed me scenario, then hollow point expanding ammo of a small calibre is likely to make a real mess of the game you wish to put in the pot. Is this correct? Can the .22 pellets be used ok normally for larger game?

I know a bit about firearms ballistics but not for airguns. It should be similar, but I am interested to know from someone who does. Thankyou, TL.
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2 May 2012, 10:30,
#15
RE: logun domin8tor
TL,

There seems to be an art in air gun pellets. There are dozens of different types including hollow point. People have their favs and swear by them.
Skean Dhude
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It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent that survives. It is the one that is the most adaptable to change. - Charles Darwin
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2 May 2012, 10:51,
#16
RE: logun domin8tor
(2 May 2012, 10:30)Skean Dhude Wrote: TL,

There seems to be an art in air gun pellets. There are dozens of different types including hollow point. People have their favs and swear by them.

Some of them look really un-aerodynamic, like the flat heads etc. I need to get small packets of all the different types really and test them all.
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2 May 2012, 11:01,
#17
RE: logun domin8tor
I can't disagree but most are fired over very short distances, 10 yrds, into targets. The flat heads ensure the paper is clearly ripped plus when they hit a pigeon or rabbit all the energty goes into the animal and not through.

I've used a lot of pellets and there isn't that much of a difference at close range. Now when you go 25 yrds + then it makes a difference and I use round headed or pointed pellets for accuracy. I've used some expensive fancy ones but imo they are not worth the money.
Skean Dhude
-------------------------------
It is not the strongest of the species that survives, nor the most intelligent that survives. It is the one that is the most adaptable to change. - Charles Darwin
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