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Hi Everyone

This is a quick post I keep meaning to write up, but I've been so distracted I've just not gotten round to it. Sorry.

It's about how you may be storing your water. You could be poisoning yourself and your family, without even realising it!

If you are storing water in plastic containers, do NOT have them sat directly on a concrete surface, like a garage floor!!! If the concrete is directly in contact with the plastic, it causes a slow, but very nasty reaction. I'm not going to go into this too much, as aside from Hrusai, most people aren't going to be interested in the chemical breakdown equations. Put simply, you'll be polluting your own water!

If you are going to store water in the garage, or on a concrete surface, make sure you provide a separating layer so that the bottles are not sat directly on the concrete. The easiest layer, and probably hardest wearing, is actually carpet. Most people have spare carpet in the garage. If you're one of those people (I know we're preppers, so I don't expect us to fit into the 'most people' category) then consider yourself lucky. Get that carpet down.

If you have had water tubs stored directly on the concrete, throw away the water, and if you can afford to do so, you might as well chuck the storage container away. You don't have to, but the hassle of clearing it out might just make it easier to start again.

This is also a very important note to consider when making caches and the alike!
EEEK, and thank you for this, Scythe. Warning much appreciated.

Would this also apply to heavy duty plastic on paving slabs? One of my rainwater butts is on the patio in order to benefit from the downpipe, and I'm afraid that one IS plastic.
Sorry Lou, not 100% sure. To be safe, I'd pour away all that water, lift the butt up, add carpet layering for it to sit on (probably 2 layers of carpet for a waterbutt) and start collecting again.

http://faculty.deanza.edu/donahuemary/St...earthquake

"DO NOT STORE ANY PLASTIC WATER CONTAINER DIRECTLY ON CONCRETE. The concrete will leech chemicals into the water, contaminating it. Concrete will also degrade the plastic bottle causing failure."
I'll do that, Scythe - and thanks.

The butt is on a stand (a thing like a big inverted plant pot) in order to make it easy to get a bucket under the tap, but that too is plastic and I guess it's better to be safe than sorry.

Really helpful warning.
The stand should act as a layer separating the butt from direct contact with concrete, so you should be okay. If you're worried, I'd try and get a layer of something there, but you should be okay.
if I want to keep anything off the floor I use a small pallet, freely available in loads of placesAngel
I was thinking wood either slats or as PB said pallets
(30 May 2013, 13:20)Scythe13 Wrote: [ -> ]If the concrete is directly in contact with the plastic, it causes a slow, but very nasty reaction. I'm not going to go into this too much

Got a link buddy?
(30 May 2013, 17:38)BeardyMan Wrote: [ -> ]Got a link buddy?

For the chemical equation or just general clarification?

I added a link for Lil Lou, but I can search for the reaction if you want one?

This guy even said 2 layers of carpet. I thought that idea was just me being super cautious.

http://blog.totallyready.com/food-storag...ter/01/06/
Would someone or anyone care to explain to me what this chemical reaction is and a link to its source please ?

OK after digging around I found on the TOTALLY READY>COM website an article about storing water, See link below
http://totallyready.com/content/view/24/9/.

The very last line I've copied below cautions about storing (I think) plastic bottles of water on concrete floors as it MAY leach toxins into the water. But no evidence to support the statement. ???

Still looking
NR

Water Storage-What if the Tap Goes Dry?
I recently watched a national morning television show where they discussed emergency preparations and the “expert” gave some really awful advice about water storage. Some straight talk is in order.Water storage is absolutely essential to a good preparedness plan. In an emergency, it may be too late to go to the tap and expect clean water to flow. One gallon per person per day is the minimum you will need to continue living the way in which you are accustomed. You will need at least two quarts for drinking and the rest for cooking, cleaning, flushing toilets, and personal hygiene.

When planning your water needs don’t forget your pets.

Water may be stored in a variety of containers:
1. Heavy duty plastic containers with a spout or a pump for dispensing water. Water is heavy and you need to consider this when choosing containers. Five gallons of water weighs 42 pounds. Containers should be manageable for one adult to lift or they should be equipped with a pump. Make sure when using plastic containers that they are approved for food use. Chemicals are available to add to storage containers preserving the water for five years.
2. Plastic bottles - Water may be stored in well-rinsed bleach (hypochlorite) bottles. Begin by cleaning bottles with hot, soapy water. Completely clean the inside and the outside of the container, including the handle, the lid. Rinse well with plain water. Finally, rinse with clean water. Once you clean and sanitize the container, fill it with water you know is safe and screw the cap on tightly. Since some experts say storing water in bleach containers is fine and others say it is dangerous I recommend you rotate the water at least once a year and then reserve it for cleaning and flushing toilets.
3. Soda Bottles - Liter soda bottles with screw on lids work well for storing drinking water. Colored bottles are the best as they filter the light. Sanitize by rinsing inside and out with a solution of one-half teaspoon of household bleach per pint of water. Rinse well with plain water. Finally, rinse with clean water. Once you clean and sanitize the container, fill it with water you know is safe and screw the cap on tightly. You may want to fill containers with your own tap water. Water in different areas tastes differently and your family will be accustomed to the taste of your own tap. Before using open the container for several hours. Pour water back and forth between two pitchers to add air back in and improve the taste. If the water appears cloudy treat or use it for cleaning and bathing but not for drinking. Liter bottles are also great to have on hand to grab quickly if you need to evacuate. They can be carried easily by an adult with the use of a lanyard type bottle carrier. (Available at http://www.TotallyReady.com)
4. Mylar water storage bags - These are impermeable to gases and are usually sold in bulk cases for easy stacking. Individual pouches can be purchased for storing in 72 hour kits and in your car. (visit http://www.TotallyReady.com to purchase pouched water)These pouches are not rodent proof so check them often and place small pouches in a rodent proof container.
5. Glass jars - As you empty your canning jars sterilize them, and the screw on lids, and fill with water until you are ready to refill them with the “fruits” of your gardening efforts. They are already taking up space so put them to work! Glass jars should be stored in a dark place and preferably in the original cardboard box. Water can also be canned by processing for 20 minutes in a water bath or steam canner. This is not necessary if water is rotated on a regular basis.
6. Picnic coolers - Fill with water between uses.
7. The bathtub - If you know a storm is approaching and there is even a remote chance you may be without water, fill your bathtubs and sinks. You should experiment with this before an emergency arises. If your drain does not hold the water well you will want to purchase an inexpensive stopper at the hardware store. We have left our plants in a tub with water, while we left on vacation for a week and the water was still there when we returned home.
8. Pitchers and pots -Drag out grandma’s silver pitcher, pot, canners and anything else that can hold water. All of these items will hold water that you can safely drink. That is huge! Once items are filled cover with a lid or plastic wrap to prevent dust and ants from getting in.
9. Swimming pools - Use for cleaning and bathing only.
10. Hot water heaters - Make sure you turn off the power (or gas) before you attempt to drain. To get a free flow of water from the hot water tank, open the valve at the top of the tank as well as the faucet at the bottom of the tank. Increase the water flow by turning on any hot water faucet in the house before draining water from the hot water tank.
11. Water beds - Use water from these for cleaning and bathing only.
12. Liquids in canned fruits and vegetables are good for cooking. This is one reason we recommend you have canned foods as well as dried foods in your emergency food supply. Peach juice is great for cooking oatmeal. Rice and pasta cook well in the water from canned vegetables.
13. Melted snow-Be sure the snow is freshly fallen and clean. Never eat snow as it will rapidly lower your body temperature.
14. Rain water should be collected away from trees or structures which could contaminate the water. Mylar blankets; new, unused 5 gallon buckets; new unused garbage cans; pots and pans from the cupboard,all work well to collect water.
15. Fruit juices should be included in every emergency storage plan. They are not only useful for drinking but also adding flavor foods such as oatmeal. and disguising the taste of medications.

A Few Tips:


Do not drink sodas or alcoholic beverages in an emergency. They will greatly increase thirst.
Do not store water containers directly on a concrete floor. Chemicals MAY leach into the bottles and the concrete will weaken the plastic and cause your bottles to leak.

I found this from the same website but again without any evidence to back up the comment, but in this version the author now says that GROUNDWATER leaching from concrete MAY get into plastic containers but aain it does not specify what type.

I would like to point out at this point that in Britain many flat areas store their potable drinking water in large CONCRETE towers, and in other areas towns store their water in large underground concrete reserviors ??



"Speaking of leaking, if you have read the section in Mother Hubbard on water storage you know that water should never be stored on concrete. Just in case you haven’t heard that before it is worth a mention. Plastic containers, any plastic, should not be stored directly on a concrete floor. Always place a wooden board, a few layers of carpeting, an old metal rack, something on the floor first. Concrete absorbs water from the ground beneath it. Concrete contains many poisonous chemicals and as it absorbs ground water these can leach into plastic containers. You would not taste them when drinking the water or when using it to prepare foods but they could make you sick."

Found this thread on APN and it appears to be yet another myth or unfounded or unsubstantiated statement
http://www.americanpreppersnetwork.net/v...07&t=40050

PLEASE SEE THE LAST FAQ on this URL from a reputable US company

http://www.surewatertanks.com/faq.html

"Q: Can I place my water tank directly on cement; don't "toxins" leech through?

A: To the best of our knowledge the concept of "toxins" leeching from the concrete into drinking water stored in HDPE tanks does not occur. We've spoken with representatives of both the plastics and cement industries and neither is aware of this phenomena. We do recommend putting a piece of plywood between the tank and the floor if you're storing your drinking water in a garage. Substances like gasoline, oil, and certain fertilizers that may have been spilt on a garage floor can leech through the plastic. Further, the plywood creates a smooth flat surface for your drinking water tank."

Please peeps can we stick to warnings and cautions with evidence and links, instead of blind posts.

Snippet on water containers

Storage Containers



Container

Description / Pros

Cautions / Cons




Plastic Juice or Soda Bottles


Use clear plastic containers with a PETE recycle code on the bottom. Used containers should be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed. They are inexpensive and readily available. Do not use milk bottles.


Used containers often taint the flavor of the water. Storage area needs to consider bottle shape and size. These containers need to be protected against light and leakage as they are typically thinner plastic.




Heavy Plastic Buckets, Carboys or Drums


These should be food grade and also either stamped with a PETE or HDPE recycle code. Can be purchased new at emergency supply stores and sometimes used ones are available (such as from soda syrup).


More expensive than used bottles. Larger drums are heavy when filled and often bulky for storage. You also need to consider how you will get the water out for use and rotation.




Commercially Packaged Water


You can purchase water that has been commercially bottled. This water will keep for up to five years. You can also get five-gallon containers (typically in boxes or bags) at emergency supply stores.


These are convenient, clean, you can pick the taste you prefer, and they are sealed for longer storage. They will be more expensive per gallon than storing your own and they are not reusable.




Water Heaters


You may close the inlet valve immediately after the water supply is disrupted and use the water in your water heater.


This will not protect against contamination of the water supply but would be a good source of water for non-potable needs.




Water Beds


A double water bed holds about 2000 gallons of water. This water contains an algaecide. Do NOT drink it.


Not usable for potable water but may be used for sanitation needs.




Bleach Bottles


These are made from good plastic for storage but are not considered "food-grade".


Since it is hard to determine whether you have cleaned out all of the bleach these are technically not suitable for potable water but may be used for sanitation needs.


Treatment Alternatives
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