I agree that the industrial diamond sharpeners are best and easiest for most people to get good results with for field use.
I have the EZ lap rod and a 1"x3" pocket stone with fish hook groove in my kit, as well as a Pillar file for sharpening machetes, axes, etc.
Back home in the shop I have an assortment of Japanese water stones for fine work, and a Lansky sharpening kit and holding fixture with Diamond stones from 120 to 1000 for routine stuff.
(31 October 2013, 00:46)CharlesHarris Wrote: [ -> ]I agree that the industrial diamond sharpeners are best and easiest for most people to get good results with for field use.
I have the EZ lap rod and a 1"x3" pocket stone with fish hook groove in my kit, as well as a Pillar file for sharpening machetes, axes, etc.
Back home in the shop I have an assortment of Japanese water stones for fine work, and a Lansky sharpening kit and holding fixture with Diamond stones from 120 to 1000 for routine stuff.
Thanks Charles, good to know. I did look at the Lansky sharpening kit, just wonder, how easy is it use in your opinion?
The Lansky sharpener has a learning curve, but works well once you figure it out.
The grind angle on most factory knives is not uniform. I use the coarse grit diamond to recut the grind angle, to do quick stock removal, then after cleaning up the bevel with 120 grit, remove the coarse tool marks with 280, then for ordinary kitchen use a 320 or 400 grit edge is good for chopping and rough work with a 20 degree bevel, which gives a strong edge.
For fine work use a 15 degree bevel and work down to a 600 or 1000 grit "shaving" edge.
Surgical instruments get the final hone to 2000 with the Japanese water stone.
i have this pocket stone
http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/fallkniven-dc4
ray mears has done a video on it's use in the field, quite easy to find (sorry, new IT system at work, can't view YT to link etc)
I liked it so much i bought the DC521 bench stone