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+--- Thread: No Digging (/showthread.php?tid=25)
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No Digging - Kenneth Eames - 3 September 2011
This is a brief introduction to no- digging. The principle of no-dig gardening is this: You cover your soil with a massive covering of compost. The worms beneath the ground draw down the compost into there burrows and convert it into worm casts that are absorbable food for your plants. Your compost can be cardboard, paper, leafmould and compost from the compost heap. This is complemented every two years by a sprinkling of lime.
As your compost, when layered upon the soil, is known as a mulch, is taken beneath the ground, you continue to add more compost. If you can keep your layer of compost about four inches deep, the fertility will improve. When you come to planting your plants, etc., out, all you do is make a hole through the mulchand into the ground and plant as normal. Do leave a small gap around the plant in case the mulch is not fully composted. In a survival situation, this system will save you a lot of hard work and allow time for other chores. Ken Eames.
[Edited by SD to change the font size.]
RE: No Digging - Skean Dhude - 3 September 2011
Ken,
How long does it take to convert a poor soil into good soil with this technique?
RE: No Digging - Kenneth Eames - 3 September 2011
Depending on the amount of compost, you should have a very friable and fertile soil within a reasonable time. For instance, if you started tomorrow and were able to maintain a four inch mulch for three months, you should find that any plants put into the soil should develop very quickly. In my first posting I said keep a small gap around the plants. If the compost is not properly ripened and comes in contact with the plant, it would be liable to burn it. Ken neth Eames.
RE: No Digging - Skean Dhude - 3 September 2011
Ken,
Do you mean that at this time of year. It would prepare into January and over the cold months?
RE: No Digging - Kenneth Eames - 2 October 2011
SD, Yes is the answer. Your compost bin(s) should have a trowelful of lime every ten inches, to keep the soil sweet. Build your heaps in layers of ten inches, add the trowelful of lime and a one inch layer of soil. Build your next ten inch layer and so on. When youv'e filled the compost bin keep a lid on top to avoid too much rain. If you have a crow bar or long stick.insert it in the top and push down as far as you can, wiggle it a little. When your compost has warmed up and is becoming dry, pour water down the hole and wet thoroughly. Replace the lid. Repeat watering when necessary. Kenneth Eames.
RE: No Digging - Skean Dhude - 2 October 2011
OK.I'll look at this whilst I am planning.
I must confess I don't normally use lime though. I'll try consider trying some this year. What is an alternative for after an event?
RE: No Digging - Kenneth Eames - 2 October 2011
After an event you can either crush limestone or burn it in a kiln. If you burn it in a kiln you will need to slake it with water. It will then give off a great deal of heat. Be careful you do not get burned. Once it has been slaked you can use it on the garden or make lime mortar with it. If you don't have limestone you can use chalk. Burn in a kiln and slake with water as above. Be careful. Kenneth Eames.
RE: No Digging - Kenneth Eames - 31 October 2011
Two sites to look at with pics of plants grown by the no-dig method. I hope you find them interesting. http://www.charlesdowding.co.uk and the other one is http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com
Kenneth Eames.
RE: No Digging - Skean Dhude - 31 October 2011
Thanks for that. They look good so I've added them to the site sidebar.
RE: No Digging - Kenneth Eames - 31 October 2011
Hello SD, I am pleased you like these sites. I think that if you tried the no-digging way, in a couple of square metres of your garden you would find it advantageous and of course time saving. No acheing back after a morning in the garden digging and preparing the ground for your seasons crops. Kenneth Eames.