Tent pole crossbow bolts

[Nemesis]

(27 May 2012, 01:42)Tonka Wrote: Forgot to say, I'm interested to see how the gaffa tape bolt flys.

I use gaffa tape on my atlatl and my sling bow, holds up very well, I would not be surprised if it outlasts the vanes on these bolts.

[Barneyboy]

wood like more imfo about duck tape bolts

[Nemesis]

Tested the duct tape bolt.

[NorthernRaider]

W & C any chance of a test shop video showing penetration test into a lump of pork with its skin on ( apparently pig meat has the same texture and density as human flesh)

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BTW thanks for all these videos they are very useful sources of prep research.
NR

[Nemesis]

(27 May 2012, 17:59)NorthernRaider Wrote: W & C any chance of a test shop video showing penetration test into a lump of pork with its skin on ( apparently pig meat has the same texture and density as human flesh)

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BTW thanks for all these videos they are very useful sources of prep research.
NR

I will try NR.

[Nemesis]

Bit of fun this time.

[cryingfreeman]

I made very effective bolts from dowel rod with a ball bearing stuck on the business end with Araldite, and flights made from printer labels and cut to shape once stuck on. For close range work (which is what crossbows should be used for anyway), they were very good.

[Timelord]

(27 May 2012, 01:42)Tonka Wrote: "Energy delivered to a target comes more from velocity that from weight of the projectile, so heavier is not always better. There is a balance for the optimum weight bolt for a given bow. And it does seem like the bolts available are usually on the lighter end of the scale."

I am sorry Tonka, but this statement is incorrect. Do not confuse modern firearms supersonic ballistics lore with subsonic ballistics as used in most firearms up until the advent of nitrocellulose powders.

It is fact that a subsonic projectile delivers more energy dump into its target the heavier the projectile is. That is the main reason why we used lead in firearms projectiles.

The confusion comes with supersonic higher speed projectiles which impart a shock wave into the target and this is why they are so devastating for their smaller size. Still, there is a modern ideology still reoccurring in military & related civilian thinking that larger calibre could still be better than high speed smaller in some circumstances.

A crossbow is in no way even near a black powder firearm in FPS (foot per second) velocity. Thus a heavier more robust bolt, fired from a crossbow capable of handling the forces required is the formula suitable for those who wish to go the power route.

An alternative is to have a longer launching run as velocity is the square of the distance or something like that. The velocity can be significantly increased this way. Also & but, a light bolt/arrow will still not maintain the (low) velocity very well and again will not have great energy to impart into the target.

If you are only hunting and therefore only require to pierce the target for it to bleed out or hopefully to hit a vital organ, then a light bolt/arrow is probably ok. The quest for higher power crossbows is not really about hunting for the pot, the only reason these type of crossbows are perceived to be useful is for hunting larger 2 legged predators.

Otherwise the quest for high poundage is leading the design requirements off down a different track. Prospective owners really need to think about what it is they want the crossbow for. Big poundages is for war, which is a different design consideration to the other choice, which is a hunting type crossbow.

Those crossbows you see on the usual merchandisers sites are hunting crossbows and some are just pseudo toys. Regards, TL

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Press the reply button on my previous post to see the message. Why foes this forum software still do this??

Fixed WnC.

[Tonka]

So we know that gaffer tape flights work. We know that tent pole shafts work. So we are nearly at a recipe for making new bolts as we need them, out of easy to come by materials after SHTF day.
This confirms my own thoughts and experiments, but the bit I had trouble with is the heads. Any thoughts on what to make heads from?
Best I have made is just leaf shape heads cut straight out of thin steal plate, by hand with tin snips. I haven't tested them though for legal reasons. These are quick and easy to make, but I was wondering if anyone has any better ideas. Also attaching to the shaft. It is quite easy with wood, as you can cut a notch, but I'm not sure with Carbon fibre or GRP. With that I have used a thin tang, but it was very weak at that point... even when helped with epoxy. Again never fired.
My ancestors were makers of arrowheads, so I feel I should get this part right.

[Nemesis]

First of all the duct tape is the clear winner, I should do a video how i fold it at top and bottom, the store bought vanes they are ok if you have unlimited supply and lot of glue, because my crossbow is pushing the vanes into the target causing them to split, the duct tape just goes in and once pulled out maintains its shape.

The heads well I was not really making a shtf type bolt I was just doing what I do hobby fuck about thing, I would suggest maybe nails would be everywhere or screws, cans, even carved wooden points, or bone I think this list could go on and on.

I will knock something up and test.

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(27 May 2012, 23:17)cryingfreeman Wrote: I made very effective bolts from dowel rod with a ball bearing stuck on the business end with Araldite, and flights made from printer labels and cut to shape once stuck on. For close range work (which is what crossbows should be used for anyway), they were very good.

80lb Crossbow I take it?

If you use dale/wood in these type crossbows in the videos they would shatter and could cause injury.

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