Extreme Weather Prepping

[Scythe13]

Okay, if you've been a member of this forum for a week, you would have read plenty about the floods and things like that, but there has not been much information on what to do about it, other than being told your house sucks and you should have moved out of it over 100 years ago. Not that useful and not always an option either. So...The Glorious S13, with super sexy facial features, whom shoots lazers out of his eyes, and with buns of steel (haha, yes I know, there is a lot more about me that's amazing HAHAHAHA, sorry, I'm just messing about. I'm crap really...so the wife says) is here to help.

Yes, this will probably be a long post, but there has been a lot of thought and research that's gone into it. So if you think there will be extreme weather conditions on the horizon, similar to the last few years, then you'll hopefully benefit from this read.

Okay, first up we'll be exploring the various concepts of 'extreme weather' and how to prep for them. There is probably a lot more that can be said, and hopefully the comments and possible spin off threads will cover that which I missed or omitted for the sake of the reader wanting to have a life.

Right, let's begin with Extreme Rain.

Somerset Levels, The Thames, and my bathtub have all flooded recently. To solve one of these, just turn that tap off and don't get distracted by Pop Tarts! But if something happens, how will this weather situation effect you?

Well, if you have Waterbutts, you'll be fortunate to have a bountiful supply forever, right? Well, not exactly. The Plains of Africa experience extreme rains, and they dry out pretty quickly afterwards, so if you're getting extreme you should probably prep for a super dry few months later on. Sorry, drifted off topic a little. Waterbutts. If there's more water being dished out, it means you'll have a larger chance of flooding and thus a lack of clean water around. Will your current system have enough storage to not only water the garden when it's dry...for 3 or 4 months at a time, but also enough storage to feed you and yours while the area is flooding AND during the potential dry season? For just 3 or 4 of us, we're looking at a MINIMUM of 3000 litres of storage...plus the garden plant's storage supply too. That'll supply 3 litres a day for drinking, each, for 500 days. Add washing the alike, and we'll have about 300 days worth of water...minimum.

All the rain coming down over a prolonged period can lead to more contamination of flood water, but the rain is of benefit...if you can use it right. If you only have a small catchment AREA, e.g. a conservatory, you'll be pleased to know you can catch a lot more water now! So expanding your barrel supply would be fine, you'll not need to worry about having too small an area for rain-harvesting. You would even gutter up your shed (if it isn't already) and store what you can from there.

Next up, do you have some kind of water transport? Preferably one that keeps you dry? Swimming in flood water can get you from one place to another. But it can also get you killed or infected. Neither is ideal or fun. So, you want to be able to travel on or above the water. Think boat, raft, dingy, kayak, bridges, pontoons, plane, helicopter, auto-gyro, even a ladder or rope bridge between trees (just a thought, not necessarily a recommendation). But if you're bugging out, you might be caught with a hell of a situation. Your BOL is across a flooded area of potentially contaminated water. With this situation, beware of inflatables. I'm not against them, and if they're your only option, GO FOR IT! But if you can chose between hard base or inflatable, go hard base. The reason is that if you can't see what's below you, you run the risk of a puncture or similar. Then you're up a creek, and you have a paddle, but you're still screwed. Like I said, if you have no other options, of course, go for the inflatable.

A quick question, can you replenish the soils of their nutrients in your planting area, after a period of extreme rain? Nutrients are washes out of certain places, while flood plains are known for ultra-fertile soils. Fun with silt? If you've not thought about this much, then consider this a quick reminder. It might be time to start building that compost bin, as well as store a little extra fertiliser.

Last, but not least, how to stay dry. Have you got a waterproof cover, or 3 for your BOB? Do you have waterproofs strapped to or inside your bag? So you have spares? If you're camping out enroute to your BOL, do you have space to let your waterproofs hang and dry while you sleep?

Next up, let's have a look at extreme dry.

Droughts are becoming increasingly common. Last year, the year before, and so on. Hosepipe bans are not what we're on about. We're on about genuinely prolonged periods where there is no rain. In a working society situation like we have now, it's not the end of the world. It's just an inconvenience. A major annoyance at worst. But what about if you have survived a year post societal collapse. There is no longer ANY running water from your taps. All you have left is your water storage. Remember that huge quantity of water that your had to pour away mid winter? I bet, now it's in a drought, you wish you had additional water collection and storage systems?

Look at things like ponds and the alike. Also, why not use the drought to your advantage? What about setting up an algae or duck-weed tank? Depending on the algae, you could have many different uses for that, e.g. fertiliser, food, methane, etc. And duck-weed has a high protein content. But more importantly, why not be a little lazy? A small solar panel and a relatively small battery can power a water pump or air pump, and can water your plants for you. You'd need a small timer switch, but they're pretty easy to source. Some pumps have timers build in. When it's hot, your garden will just water itself. You can get some pretty quiet water pumps or air pumps. If you can't figure our how to use the air pump, look into water pressure or even something super simple like windowfarms. Imagine, post SHTF, your garden waters itself, and you just defend, check, and eat. Pretty good idea hu?

What about drying and solar cooking? Why not use the drought and high temps to start a solar cooker to dry meats and the alike for when the weather changes again?

Okay, now for bugging out questions. Do you have a small solar charger system for your BOB? It might seem pointless, because your iPod has an awesome battery life haha, but it might be nice to keep your radio charged. It may also be worth looking into solar battery chargers, and even power stores, such as the Veho Pebble. I use that to power my micro projector when I want to watch a film on the side of my tent or tarp.

For even more fun, and possibly being a bit wasteful, what about filling a 40 litre solar shower and enjoying a nice hot scrub later in the day, after the sun has warmed it? If you stand in a bathtub, you can collect the water and solar-still it clean for use the next day. Damn right, get the solar-stills running!


What about extreme Wind?

What is going on at the moment? Extreme wind everywhere. I bet HL is enjoying the extra power from his wind turbine?

This can be used to disguise noise and the alike. If it's blowing a hoolie, what a great time to get out and make some noise. The sound will travel, but it will be so masked, and so few people will be out in it, you'll be laughing....even if you did actually laugh nobody would hear.

Okay, but what other uses is wind for, other than to Dutch Oven your wife? This is where you bow to the insanity that is Scythe13. If you're feeling a bit lazy, you could hack into a tree part way, then let the wind finish knocking it down for you. You weaken the tree, the wind finishes the job. Easy. Plus, as long as you have the tree far enough away from you and yours, you don't need to worry about what direction it falls in. You could even just dig around the rootball and cut through some of the major roots keeping it in place. That way you can use the upturned earth, once it's fallen, as part of a hide or trench. I feel really lazy now.

As for how to defend against wind, you'll need to protect fences and the alike. Aside from strengthening the posts of your fences, you need a way for the wind to be able to be slowed down, but still have a route to travel. Look at more of a trellis style system instead of a full 6 food fence. Or look at upgrading your posts to concrete or something stronger.

Again, when it comes to bugging out, you'll want to find routes that provide shelter and the alike. You'll need to be ultra vigilant, because you'll not be able to hear people coming, however, they'll not be able to hear you either. Also, there is the potential for trees to be falling over, especially in areas where there are a lot of lazy preppers haha.


I hope this gives some idea and starts to get you thinking.

There is a lot more stuff on extreme weather that could be looked at, but the thing is, I'm a bit bored of typing and am in the mood to go out for a run in this weather.

TTFN.

I may take up where I left off, but probably not.

[Devonian]

With regards to extreme weather I think it is will become more and more normal in the future and the sort of thing experienced this winter will happen again, maybe not every year, but it will happen more frequently.

With regards to protecting yourself from flooding, if you are in a flood zone what you can do to protect yourself is always going to be pretty limited which is why it is so important to consider your location before moving to a new house. You can normally protect again short term flooding, which is in effect just passing through, but if you have standing water up against your property for more than say 12-24 hours, then you are going to loose the battle and the water will get in if you are below the flood level. In that situation it is a case of damage limitation.

Similarly with extreme winds, other than making sure you keep your house well maintained and repair loose tiles; damaged gutters; strengthen fences etc, there is again not a lot you can do.

However from a prepping perspective, the type of weather than concerns me most is that of 'prolonged' extreme cold and severe snow, both of which I believe we may well get hit hard by sometime in the next few years. These have the potential to cripple the entire country; cutting of food and water supplies; preventing fuel deliveries to petrol stations; and putting extreme pressure on gas and electric supplies - but we can prepare for these!!

[bigpaul]

about 3 years ago we were snowed in here, which is VERY unusual for this part of the country, we are more used to rain and lots of it, I've got a shovel and a supply of road grit, but as we didn't need to go anywhere we decided to sit it out, we had a full store cupboard and so we waited and waited and waited, eventually it thawed but it took about 3-4 weeks , we nearly ran out of uht milk but I've increased the stock since then, but that was all.

[Devonian]

(15 February 2014, 18:31)bigpaul Wrote: about 3 years ago we were snowed in here, which is VERY unusual for this part of the country, we are more used to rain and lots of it, I've got a shovel and a supply of road grit, but as we didn't need to go anywhere we decided to sit it out, we had a full store cupboard and so we waited and waited and waited, eventually it thawed but it took about 3-4 weeks , we nearly ran out of uht milk but I've increased the stock since then, but that was all.

Yes that was the worst we have had down this part of the world for many years, but it was still only a few inches of snow and temperatures never really went much below about -6C, and then only at night.

I'm thinking that we are long "overdue" another extreme winter event like those in 1963 and 1947 where the snow was more like 6 feet deep, even in down here in the SW. If that happens and hangs around across the whole of the UK for a few weeks or a month (rather than the usual few days) and is coupled with temperatures of say -10C or worse (which is all possible) then we will see major problems with food/water/fuel shortages!!

[bigpaul]

yeah 63 was bad, I remember the Army dropping feed to the ponies on the moor from helicopters !! if we had another winter like that that'd sort out a few people wouldn't it? they wouldn't think preppers were mad after that would they? we've got alternative heating, lighting and cooking set up and plenty of quilts and sleeping bags, I doubt very few of my neighbours could say that!!

[Devonian]

1963 was long before my time but I have seen footage of the snow on TV and seen the trains fitted with snow ploughs and how villages were cut off for weeks with no outside help at all.

These days I think we are probably less well equipped to cope despite the improvements in plant and machinery and towns like yours would probably be completely cut off and left to cope by themselves with no supplies being delivered.

[bigpaul]

well, my friend nothing new there! but Devonians have always been more self reliant than most and North Devon people are more resolute than southerners...who are mostly incomers anyway!!

[Devonian]

Well that raises another interesting fact, as we both know there are a large number of rich city types how have decided to get out of London and buy their own little piece of the English Countryside usually somewhere in the South West!!

Be interesting to see how they cope with their BMW's and soft roaders when they are trapped in their country houses miles from anywhere

[River Song]

The problem with S that H T F is that there can sometimes be more than one kind of S.

So imagine .....
1. Extreme Snow in March
2, Winds
3. Flu Pandemic
4. Economic Meltdown caused by Chinese default

(BTW with regard to number 4 - checkout BBC TV on Tuesday at 9pm
with Robert Peston special. Particularly checkout the interview with Charlene Chu

)

[CharlesHarris]

I have considerable experience cleaning up after floods in the US, resulting from hurricanes and storm surges. The most important thing is decontamination, because flood waters carry all manner of pollution from sewage, agricultural chemicals, petroleum releases, etc.

Flood waters wreak havoc on the structure of the house, personal belongings, and the health of the indoor environment.
Everything which gets saturated is ruined all at once, carpeting, wallboard, appliances, and furniture. A deeper flood damages HVAC equipment, sewage and well systems, utilities, and can undermine the building foundation.

Cleaning up is a long and hard process.

If you have flood insurance, list and photograph the damage. You'll need complete records for insurance claims, applications for disaster assistance.

Shovel out as much mud as possible, then use a garden sprayer or hose to wash away mud from hard surfaces.

Clean and disinfect every surface. Scrub surfaces with hot water and a heavy-duty cleaner. Then disinfect with a solution of 1/4 cup chlorine bleach per gallon of water.

Immerse glassware, porcelain, china, plastic dinnerware and enamelware for 10 minutes in a disinfecting solution of 2 tablespoons of chlorine bleach per gallon of hot water. Air-dry dishes. Do not use a towel.

Disinfect silverware, metal utensils, and pots and pans by boiling in water for 10 minutes. Chlorine bleach should not be used in this case because it reacts with most metals and causes them to darken.

Cupboards and counters need to be cleaned and rinsed with a chlorine bleach solution before storing dishes.

Take furniture, rugs, bedding and clothing outside to dry as soon as possible. Use a dehumidifier to remove moisture or open windows to ventilate with outdoor air. Use fans to circulate air through the house. If mold and mildew have already developed, brush off items outdoors to prevent scattering spores in the house. Vacuum floors, ceilings and walls to remove mildew, then wash with disinfectant. Wear a two-strap protective mask to prevent breathing mold spores.

Mattresses should be thrown away. Upholstered furniture contaminated by floodwaters and should be cleaned only by a professional.

Wood veneered furniture is not worth the cost and effort of repair.

Solid wood furniture can usually be restored, unless damage is severe.

Toys and stuffed animals have to be thrown away if they've been contaminated by floodwaters.

Photographs, books and important papers can be frozen and cleaned later. They should be dried carefully and slowly. Wash the mud off and store the articles in plastic bags and put them in a frost-free freezer to protect from mildew and further damage until you have time to thaw and clean them or take them to a professional.

Wallboard acts like a sponge when wet. Remove all wallboard, plaster and paneling to 10cm above flood level. If soaked by contaminated floodwater, these materials are a permanent health hazard and should be removed.

Plaster and paneling can sometimes be saved, but air must be circulated in the wall cavities to dry the studs and sills.

Different types of building insulation must be treated differently. Styrofoam only needs to be hosed off.
Fiberglass batting must be thrown out if muddy but may be reused if dried thoroughly. Blown-in cellulose should be replaced since it holds water for a long time and when wet loses its antifungal and fire retardant abilities.

Electrical systems must be shut off and repaired and inspected by an electrician before it can be turned back on. Wiring must be completely dried out behind walls. Switches, convenience outlets, light outlets, entrance panel, and junction boxes that have been under water may be filled with mud.

Heating and cooling systems and ductwork will need inspection and cleaning. Flood-soaked insulation should be replaced.

Appliances will be stained, emit odors, and contain silt and gritty deposits and need to be serviced, cleaned and sanitized. Running equipment before being properly cleaned could cause a fire or electric shock. Inexpensive equipment is not cost-effective to repair and should be thrown out and replaced. Gas appliances may be professonally cleaned and service and usually remain useable,

If your basement or cellar is full or nearly full of water, pump out no more than 1/2 metre of water each day. If you drain the basement too quickly, the pressure outside the walls will be greater than the pressure inside the walls and the walls and floor may crack and collapse.

In floors wood subflooring, floor coverings (vinyl, linoleum, carpet) must be removed so that the subflooring can dry thoroughly which may take several months. Open windows and doors to expose the boards to as much air as possible.

C lean and dry carpets and rugs as quickly as possible. If sewage-contaminated floodwater covered your carpeting, discard it for health safety reasons. Also discard any carpet under water for 24 hours or more. To clean, drape carpets and rugs outdoors and hose them down. Work a disinfecting carpet cleaner into soiled spots with a broom. To discourage mildew and odors, rinse with a solution of 2 tablespoons bleach to 1 gallon water, but don't use this solution on wool or nylon carpets. Dry the carpet and floor thoroughly before replacing the carpet. Padding is nearly impossible to clean so should be replaced. If the carpet can't be removed, dry it as quickly as possible using a wet/dry vacuum and dehumidifier. Use a fan to circulate air above the carpet, and if possible, lift the carpet and ventilate with fans underneath.

Wooden floors should be dried gradually because sudden drying causes cracking or splitting. You may accelerate drying time by forcing air through the fluted underside of hardwood floorboards. Remove hardwood floor boards to prevent buckling. Remove a board every few feet to reduce buckling caused by swelling. Clean and dry wood before attempting repairs.

Remove defective roof flashing used in waterproofing roof valleys, hips and the angle between a chimney and a roof. Wet spots near a chimney or outside wall may leak due to defective flashing, narrow flashing or loose mortar joints. Look for corroded, loose or displaced flashing on sloping roof valleys and at junctions of dormers and roof.

Clear choked downspouts. Accumulated water or snow on the roof above the flashing causes water damage. Ice damming on eaves causes melting snow to back up under the shingles.

Roofing (especially wood or composition shingles) eteriorates first on southern exposures. Check southern slopes for cracking or deterioration.

Missing shingles or holes in roofing cause wet spots. To find holes, check for a drip trail or spot of light coming through in the attic. Stick a nail, straw or wire through the hole to mark the spot on the outside.

Flooding home sewage systems is hazardous for homeowners and may lead to back-up of sewage in the home, contaminated drinking water and poor sanitation until fixed. Soil treatment systems for wastewater rely on aerobic (with oxygen) regions to reduce the amounts of chemicals and living organisms (viruses, bacteria and protozoa). When the soil is saturated or flooded, those hazardous materials can enter the groundwater and your drinking water supply.