Preserving footware

[CharlesHarris]

Link with recipe the proportions for making your own dubbin. My grandfather who was a Maine guide used bear grease, beeswax and mink oil, but lard or mutton tallow can be substituted for bear grease and fish oil can also be used instead of mink oil.

http://www.madmadammel.com/2012/01/recip...ubbin.html

Ever since I was a child we always wore in winter the L.L. Bean Maine Hunting Shoe with rubber bottom and leather top, with boiled wool felt liners. Felt-lined, rubber bottomed, leather-topped boots with removable felt insoles are best suited for heavy work in cold since leather is porous, allowing the boots to "breathe" and let perspiration evaporate. Leather boots can be "waterproofed" with products that do not block the pores in the leather. However, if work involves standing in water or slush (e.g., fire fighting, farming), then waterproof boots must be worn. While these protect the feet from getting wet from cold water in the work environment, they also prevent the perspiration to escape. The insulating materials and socks will become wet more quickly than when wearing leather boots and increase the risk for frostbite.

Wear two pairs of socks, an inner sock of silk, wool-nylon blend, or thin wool and a slightly larger, thick outer sock. Liners of polypropylene help keep feet dry and warmer by wicking sweat away from the skin. However, as the outer sock becomes damp, its insulation properties decrease. If conditions permit, have extra socks available to you can dry your feet and change socks during the day. The outer sock must be one size larger size so that the inner sock is not compressed. If socks are too thick, the boots will be "tight," and the socks lose much of their insulating properties when compressed inside the boot. The constriction also reduces blood flow to the feet and increases the risk of frostbite. If the socks are too thin and boots fit loosely, the resulting friction may lead to blisters.