Protecting your BOV

[T-oddity]

LS Depending on how long you intend to lay the vehicle up for you may also want to consider draining off the fuel as this is likely to go off or put in a fuel stabilizer, but these are usually only used for over wintering vehicles so just a few months.
Also if the vehicle as been stood for several months it is worth hand cranking the engine by some means before attempting to start as there can some times be an issue with a sticking valve in older engines or in later engines cranking the engine over without fuel or spark plugs to get oil through out the engine as cylinder walls and hydraulic valves will be dry.
Alternatively have a regular schedule of running the vehicle up untill it is up to working temperature which would be my choice saves a lot of work and the vehicle is ready to go at short notice.

[Steve]

(12 January 2016, 21:25)T-oddity Wrote: Also if the vehicle as been stood for several months it is worth hand cranking the engine by some means before attempting to start as there can some times be an issue with a sticking valve in older engines or in later engines cranking the engine over without fuel or spark plugs to get oil through out the engine as cylinder walls and hydraulic valves will be dry.

True. If an engine has been standing for a while it's worth turning it just a degree or two, because oil seals dry out and stick to the shafts - if you turn it over fully you can tear the thin lip off the oil seal. Turning the engine over a degree and then leaving it for a while allows the lips to slowly release the shafts without tearing.

[Lightspeed]

Thanks guys,

The vehicle will be standing three months max.

I do this most years with no problem.

Because of the oil drain down possibility, I try to reduce the effect by using Castrol Magnatech. So far so good. In similar fashion I was recommended a spray lubricant for electrical connections called Nanotech. I am systematically applying this to every connector I open up during the course of servicing/ repairs. Apparently it reconditions the seals as well as keeping corrosion off the contacts. This was recommended by a friend in Scandinavia who's vehicles have to deal with horrendous exposure to salt every winter. I am please dwith the way its working so far.

The new idea this year is to pull the ECU. This will obviously make any attempted drive away theft rather difficult. But also, by keeping it in an EMP proof container it has the secondary benefit of effectively EMP protecting the exposed controls on the vehicle too. I mak well get a second-hand identical ECU to keep permanently in a shielded box...just in case.

[T-oddity]

Most things should be fine if only standing for three months.

[Lightspeed]

BTW barn door alarmed and under CCTV surveillance.

Hopefully that'll make for a pain free lay-up

[Pete Grey]

Our bug out vehicle is a camper van which we have to park on our drive, I have been concerned recently as there has been an increase in car thefts (usually bmw’s and merc’s) but it shows we must be aware any vehicle is at risk.

I’ve just ordered locking wheel nuts and am thinking of getting a Disklok to replace the old steering wheel lock, then making the bonnet (hood in the US) more secure and a way to padlock the battery, when the van is needed we need to know it’s ready to go.

Can anyone think of any other precautions that would be useful?.

[CharlesHarris]

(19 January 2018, 20:52)Pete Grey Wrote: Our bug out vehicle is a camper van which we have to park on our drive, I have been concerned recently as there has been an increase in car thefts (usually bmw’s and merc’s) but it shows we must be aware any vehicle is at risk.

I’ve just ordered locking wheel nuts and am thinking of getting a Disklok to replace the old steering wheel lock, then making the bonnet (hood in the US) more secure and a way to padlock the battery, when the van is needed we need to know it’s ready to go.

Can anyone think of any other precautions that would be useful?.

If non-electronic ignition old WW2 technique of removing distributor rotor.

On modern electronic ignition systems you have to be a bit more creative, but your mechanic can suggest options which work without damage. Caravan interior is subject to break-ins like a house. Good locks, heavy wire mesh inside windows, motion detector alarm.

[Pete Grey]

Thank you Charles, I have fitted an extra lock to caravan door and a very good alarm but it’s not motion sensitive. The vehicle battery is connected to a charger/maintainer so I could rig up an alarm if mains supply is interrupted that would do the job. Wire mesh on the windows would attract to much attention and as we use the van for holidays we can’t go down that path. I very much appreciate the motion detector suggestion and will make that a priority, thanks again.

[CharlesHarris]

If you don't want to use metal screen on the windows, consider security film. Not that expensive in USA, new car dealers here routinely install it in their high-end models. It will deter them from breaking out the windows and slow them down enough they won't bother.

Cut and paste some UK links, I'm not familiar with these, you you must do your own due-dilligence.

http://www.visionwindowfilms.co.uk/shatt...indow-film

http://www.pentagonglass.com/supaglass/

http://www.smashgard.co.uk/vehicle-safet...-films.php

[Pete Grey]

(20 January 2018, 17:38)CharlesHarris Wrote: If you don't want to use metal screen on the windows, consider security film. Not that expensive in USA, new car dealers here routinely install it in their high-end models. It will deter them from breaking out the windows and slow them down enough they won't bother.

Cut and paste some UK links, I'm not familiar with these, you you must do your own due-dilligence.

http://www.visionwindowfilms.co.uk/shatt...indow-film

http://www.pentagonglass.com/supaglass/

http://www.smashgard.co.uk/vehicle-safet...-films.php

Thanks Charles , will investigate.