Waxing Cotton

[Lester]

Any one ever waxed cotton and what have you used to do it.

I know you can buy re proofing wax.

Any info?

[TOF]

I don't think it's actually wax that is used. The goo used to reproof waxed cotton coats is from memory a solid which you then warm and rub in with a cloth. Smells like Pitch Pine. BP may know more, he still does the Motorbike thing. I gave up years ago.

[Timelord]

I have a few times waxed jackets & hats with the beeswax/parraffin mix substances - sold as Nikwax & Gwax & similar. It was never successful. There used to be the factory that made Barbour Wax coats less than a mile from where I live. Friends who have been in there said the made up garments used to be dipped in large hot vats and impregnated right through the material, not just on the surface. That is why they are fairly stiff to feel.

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China now I would think... A**E!

[Nemesis]

Fjällräven Greenland wax

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FJALLRAVEN-GRE...0637377049

Don't have any never tried it heard it was good is all.

[Timelord]

I will have to try warming the waxed garment next time. I would not however wax a Ventile coat or any Ventile material. I think this would interfere with the hygroscopic action of the Ventile cotton fibres which need to absorb water to thicken up and so block further transposition of moisture through the garment material. Ventile should work on its own without foreign substances affecting its working action.

I bet those Greenland Bees and the local Greenland petrochemical industry make a few bucks out of this product!!!! lol..

Same stuff sold in camping shops in a large shoepolish style tin for half the price. I think you can even buy it in liquid form in a gallon tin.

[Nemesis]

(9 May 2012, 23:46)Timelord Wrote: I will have to try warming the waxed garment next time. I would not however wax a Ventile coat or any Ventile material. I think this would interfere with the hygroscopic action of the Ventile cotton fibres which need to absorb water to thicken up and so block further transposition of moisture through the garment material. Ventile should work on its own without foreign substances affecting its working action.

I bet those Greenland Bees and the local Greenland petrochemical industry make a few bucks out of this product!!!! lol..

Same stuff sold in camping shops in a large shoepolish style tin for half the price. I think you can even buy it in liquid form in a gallon tin.

Posh it up a bit make it look the "bees knees" and charge double seems about your everyday marketing ploy.

Lester look up waxing on this site, a few have done it.

http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/forum.php

[bigpaul]

i never had to rewax anything, OH has tried dubbing and other stuff on her boots but none of it worked. you used to be able to get a resealing spray for tents but i think that was for the outer...plastic...not the inner.

[Kenneth Eames]

One way of waterproofing cotton is to apply several coats of linseed oil. This is the method for the manufacture of the old oil-skin clothing of sailors. In the last coat to be applied a black clourant was mixed in. Kenneth Eames.

[Tonka]

I've waxed plenty of leather and sheepskin, but never cotton.
A mix of beeswax and cheap Wilkinson Petroleum Jelly may work. I use that when I don't want to get white goo in the seams on custom motorbike seats like you get with normal dubbin.

[NorthernRaider]

When I was a biker I used both Belstaff and Barbour waxed cotton jackets, i used to get a reproving spray from the bike shop on the very rare occasions that some dampness got through, usually elbows and shoulders.