INSTRUCTIONS;
Time for the real work to begin now. I am going to do this in a strange way, by giving written instructions, then links to written instructions and then links to U-tube videos.
From past experience I realize that the links may disintegrate over time and be irretrievable.
First one must remember that these shoes are carryover from the stone age. Each pair is made for the individual. this pattern is the most simple I am aware of.
First we will start with a piece of cardboard. You will need a piece large enough to stand on with both feet.
Stand on the cardboard with your feet together but separate by 1/2" at the ball of the foot and by 1" at the heel. Stand with your heels 1" from the edge of the pattern flat.
Using a marking device trace around the feet with 1/2' allowance. Include the dip between the large toes.
Smooth out the tracing lines and cut out the pattern.
Using a cheap substitute for leather, something like canvas or heavy fabric, cut out the pattern.
Fold the pattern over on itself and sew from the V at the toe in a continuous seam all the way to the top of the arch of the foot. Use a simple running seam.
Turn the moccasin inside out and stick your foot into it. This is when you tweak things so they fit. Close things up or let them out but keep in mind that when you switch over to leather it will be thicker and make a smaller shoe than the fabric.
Now tack up the heel in a single seam from bottom to top.
After all the fitting has been done and you are happy with the fit take the fabric shoe apart, lay it on the cardboard pattern and trim the pattern to the new fit.
Now transfer the pattern to the leather. Using your awl, punch holes through both sides of the leather at the same time, then follow with needle and thread. do not attempt to force the needle through the leather without a pilot hole made by the awl. If you can force the needle through the leather your leather is probably too thin.
Sew the leather just as you did the fabric. Go slowly and check the fit as you progress. Sew the center seam up the top and then the heel. Turn the moccasin so that the seam is on the inside and check the fit.
After one has made two or three pair the entire job can be accomplished in about 1/2 hour.
Using this system one can make a moccasin using the most primitive tools and worst materials. One can use a pocket knife to do the cutting and make the holes for the seam and then use a thin strip of leather for the sewing.
You should note at this point that one can use a very heavy fabric if you equip this shoe with a separate sole. Upholstery fabric with a sole cut from a rubber welcome mat or any other durable combination might work.
I sometimes cut a sole from heavy leather and wear it inside the moccasin until it takes the shape of my foot, then remove it and sew it to the outside.
I will post links with patterns and instructions.
http://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+ma...66&bih=643
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxgTdrT3UQg
On the patterns and video all I want to add is that you can ignore the flaps on the sides. They simply complicate things and require more leather.
The flaps were originally intended to turn up over the cuff of the pants and keep twigs and trash out of the shoe. they can be eliminated or they can be added as a tack on or even extended up to the knee.
This is the basic shoe of all primitive people. It may be modified, a vamp/tongue added, the seam pulled to "pucker" the toe, leggings added, soles sewn on linings added and the materials changed, but it is a remnant of the flat technology that was shared world wide 10,000 years ago.
It is the pattern of the shoe Otzie the Iceman wore and it is the pattern of the oldest archeological item present from the frozen tundra of North America.
One must also keep in mind that these shoes are not durable. They require constant maintenance, patching, greasing, re-stitching and avoidance of dangerous obstacles like glass or sharp metal. They will not last long on pavement or concrete. They are fantastic for "off road" use.