Bare shaft tuning

[Mortblanc]

Do you mean to say that we have been placing feathers on the back of arrows for 15,000 years and atal atal darts for another 40,000 before that when it was not necessary, and all we needed was the right arrow?

Well haven't we been the fool!

[Straight Shooter]

Yes MB ! ....bullets behave the same way...but don,t quote me on this though.

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P.S. i think if the round pulls to the left....you cut your barrel down a bit....at a time of course ....or if it pulls right you throw the gun away ....except if your left handed....go,s without saying really.

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HOLD ON ! that last statement could be very wrong ! after more intense thought session ...it might be you have to retrieve the round and cut a bit off that....this could prove a bit difficult especially if your using an Enfield 303....you could be gone quite some time.....i will now open a new pack of wine gums and ponder this further.

[Devonian]

(24 April 2015, 21:49)Mortblanc Wrote: Do you mean to say that we have been placing feathers on the back of arrows for 15,000 years and atal atal darts for another 40,000 before that when it was not necessary, and all we needed was the right arrow?

Well haven't we been the fool!

That's not what is being said, this is just about determining the optimum arrow length for a given shaft, once you have done that, yes still add your feathers etc.

I don't really see how this is any different to the pattern tests you have posted about your various firearms and shotguns etc...

[Straight Shooter]

This is what i was eluding to DEV .

[Mortblanc]

Sorry, sometimes I forget.

[Straight Shooter]

It,s okay MB we had our rights to bear arms removed years ago , so we sulk a lot......with a hint of jealousy for those who still retain theirs...i see on the news that your police are doing a great job with firearms of late....even if you are running in the opposite direction...a lot to be said for the founding fathers....now they did have their shit together.

[Tartar Horde]

(24 April 2015, 13:45)Talon Wrote: I've been increasingly getting into barebow archery and tuning.I'm fine with my spine weight but I still can't get rid of my nock high problem.I think my release is at fault,I also shoot Mediterranean with a glove
.Once fletched my arrows are fine but I would love to get them flying straight unfletched.
.I've also reluctantly switched to traditional carbon shafts.As much as I would prefer wood I'm just not finding the consistency in wood shafts,this of course is for target accuracy I would still be more than happy enough with wood for actual real world accuracy out to 30 yards.

Things to check if you are shooting "nock" high.
Are you making sure your that your initial nock point is on a horizontal line with where your arrow rests on the shelf or rest. In other words the arrow must look perfectly flat/horizontal. This will probably give you "nock Down" signs, but as you raise your nocking point gradually you will see your shafts starting to fly true.

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The type of loose you are using will not make any difference at all, as long as it is smooth and consistent. Those nock point sets where you put a small brass ring on the string can affect your arrow if they are put on badly.

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If you are getting consistent nock high readings from your bare shaft, and that shaft is of the correct spine for you, then I think you may still have your nock point too high.

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Although I still make the odd wooden/Bamboo arrows for friends I gave up using them as they are simply not as good as Alloy/Carbon.

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Mort was very nearly right there!!! a perfectly tuned Arrow will fly straight without the need for feathers out to 30 yds easily. Early man knew this also as quite a few tribes used no feathers on their arrows or atlatl darts, rather relying on the skill in selecting quality shafts. Feathers help smooth out any inconsistencies with a less than perfect shaft. Bigger fletchings will stabilise your arrows faster but will slow them down a bit, and are more noisy. The best compromise is to use just the amount of feather you need to stabilise, and nothing more. You are looking for the smallest fletchings you can get away with, as these will give you the fastest flight, with consequently less holdover at distance.

[Talon]

I've tried various nock positions Tartar and I like to tie my nocking points with serving thread (I'm not a big fan of crimp on nocks).Still can't get a perfect flat bare tuned shaft.
They strangely enough do straighten up a little bit more when shot perfectly vertical and the arrow nocked 1/4 below horizontal.I can't grasp why,but it's irrelevant as I always shoot my bow with a bit of cant to it.About 2 o'clock or thereabouts.Forgot to mention I also shoot off the shelf with a felt pad as I like the arrow as close to my hand as I can get it.
Using 3"" feathers fixes the nock high issue.I haven't tried my current set up with broadheads,I imagine I would have to go with a bigger vane as the ones I'm using are only a 1/2 "" high,they give good flight with my field points

[Tartar Horde]

(26 April 2015, 10:53)Talon Wrote: I've tried various nock positions Tartar and I like to tie my nocking points with serving thread (I'm not a big fan of crimp on nocks).Still can't get a perfect flat bare tuned shaft.
They strangely enough do straighten up a little bit more when shot perfectly vertical and the arrow nocked 1/4 below horizontal.I can't grasp why,but it's irrelevant as I always shoot my bow with a bit of cant to it.About 2 o'clock or thereabouts.Forgot to mention I also shoot off the shelf with a felt pad as I like the arrow as close to my hand as I can get it.
Using 3"" feathers fixes the nock high issue.I haven't tried my current set up with broadheads,I imagine I would have to go with a bigger vane as the ones I'm using are only a 1/2 "" high,they give good flight with my field points

I shoot exactly like you Talon, the only difference is I use a Thumb ring. With a 1/4 below horizontal nock point your bare shaft should be showing nock low mate, as the point will be higher than your nock and flying point high, nock low. The placement of your nock point can be quite sensitive, movements of 1/16-1/8 of an inch can affect arrow impact, try adjusting a little bit at a time, shoot half a dozen arrows, and repeat. This is the method I use, and admittedly it takes a bit of time, buts it worth the patience, and it's fun shooting arrows innit. The brace height of your Bow will also have an effect on your nocking point. A Bow has a "sweet spot" where the brace height is in balance with the harmonics of the Bow, and your shooting style. The Boywer/manufacturer will give you a recommended maximum-minimum brace height, but it's up to the archer to find the best. What I do is start at the maximum brace height and start shooting arrows at ten yds, then I lower the brace by 1/4-1/2 inch and repeat process till I reach the minimum brace height as recommended by manufacturer. As you are shooting you will feel the bow start to change and the arrow/bow noise will change also. You will find a spot where the vibration and noise of the bow will be at it's minimal, and the arrows will fly faster and sweeter, this is the "sweet spot".
You could try checking that your nock point is not moving, I had the same problem with my Mongol Bow, I had to build the nocking area up each side of the nock to seat it more comfortably.

[Talon]

That's what I can't understand.1/4"" below horizontal should give me nock low,but when I tried it with a vertical hold it did seem to straighten the bare shafts up a bit,still shot nock high when I canted it to my normal stance.
I couldn't figure out why unless it was poor technique on my part.
I played around quite a bit with the brace height and an 8"" brace seems to be where it likes to be.The bow seems to be at it's sweet spot regarding vibration and wants to jump straight forward at the target when I loose.
Moving and unwinding nock points were a pain for me,I seem to have cured it by waxing the serving before I tie them on.I also dab a bit of superglue where I cut the tail end of the serving.
The next string I buy I'll try altering the nock point in smaller increments and see if I can get them going straight.
It's all good fun though
I do want to learn how to make good flemish strings though,aftermarket ones tend to be on the thin side and the serving ends up biting into my fingers